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Montenegro
(8/2009)... |
A very warm August finds us visiting the
small country of Montenegro. We
decided to make a brief stop to explore
Montenegro on the way south to Greece - It
seemed like a great destination and it was a
good detour on the way from Croatia to
Greece! We had heard good things about the
Gulf of Kotor while we where in Malta
earlier in the season. After we did a
little research to see what the newly formed
country had to offer (it separated from
Serbia in 2006). We discovered
that the small country was on the "up and
coming" list, and offered a whole host of
tourist sites and great anchorages, a
wonderful place to spend a week or two. |
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Having just recently separated from Serbia
and declared their independence, Montenegro
is still "Under Construction".
Most of the ports are still cluttered with
the remnants of old military bases, and we
felt the economy is still getting used to
the idea of the free market. The customs and
immigration procedures are a little backward
(and sometimes a little difficult),
and they really haven't picked up the
concept of tourism = good for business.
The general prices are tolerably less than
Croatia (which has really become very
expensive), but there aren't many
chandleries and the markets don't carry a
wide variety of items. All-in-all its a good
choice for a stop-over. |
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Kotor... |
Check Out:
Kotor on Google Maps |
Kotor is one of the biggest highlights in
the Bay of Kotor. With a great
well-protected anchorage right off the town
center, it makes a great sailing
destination. We spent three days
anchored just off the beach, with an easy
dingy ride to the town quay located right in
front of the main gate into the walled old
town. |
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Most of Kotor is a very old walled city with
narrow streets, ancient churches and town
squares inspired by the Venetians hundreds
of years ago. It's not a large city,
but a very nice way to spend the day
wondering around the narrow streets, eating
at one of the picturesque restaurants and
having a drink at one of the many cafe's and
bars around town. |
It's important to mention that Kotor is also
an official customs and check-in point when
entering and exiting Montenegro. It is
a very easy (and probably the most
convenient) place to dock while taking
care of the formalities. We highly recommend
the anchorage over the town quay/marina.
Although, not overly expensive, it is
located at the very end of the open bay,
hosting a stagnant brackish wash. The
ferries (and small cruise ships) dock
less than 200m away...not the best place for
a relaxing night, and swimming is out of the
question. |
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Budva... |
Check Out:
Budva on Google Maps |
Checking out of Budva was probably our only
bad experience in Montenegro (which was
more inconvenience than anything else).
Budva is a fairly popular tourist
destination, and the beaches and nightlife
are very active. We decided to anchor
just off the beach for the evening, and
check out of the customs office on the town
quay in the morning. |
In large part, the anchorage at Budva has
been taken over by mooring buoys, but there
is plenty of room for anchoring in several
places. We dropped anchor and settled
in for a nice afternoon just off the beach.
However, just around 7:30pm, the marina
marinara starts hassling a few boaters (us
among them) telling us all to move
because we are too close to the marina and
impeding traffic. Being about 300
meters from the marina, and safely between
two moored boats (about 60m to either
side), I proceeded to politely ask him
how we could possibly be in a traffic lane?
Well, apparently he gets flack for doing
this from other boaters all the time,
because he was already worked up (probably
from getting yelled at just a few minutes
earlier)...he said move or go into the
marina (at
€102/night)
or he will call the police! I asked him how
far he would like us to move, and he said
just go away...very rude! I asked for his
name, but he refused and sped away saying he
was going to get the police (of course,
none showed up). |
Unfortunately, this is not an uncommon
occurrence. This is the only bay in
Montenegro where we encountered this
problem, but we found this similar scenario
in a few places in Croatia as well,
primarily where there is a marina close by.
We surmise that the marina sends there
marinara's out to harass yachts in the
attempt to get them to come into the marina
(or simply discourage anchoring in favor
of the marina altogether). We
found that in Croatia, anytime the bay was
adjacent with an ACI marina (the local
monopoly), that they would charge for
anchoring, which was rare anywhere else.
It's a troubling trend, when you pay to sail
in a country AND you are constantly harassed
for exorbitant "anchoring taxes" in
well marked anchorages (usually just
before it gets dark). We have also
started to find more and more occurrences of
"local agents" taking over and
running town quays (usually pushing out
smaller sailing yachts in favor of large
cruising yachts). |
All-in-all, I would recommend skipping Budva
altogether in favor of the nicer parts of
Montenegro and the Bay of Kotor. Checking
in\out is easier, and the people seem to be
much nicer! |
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Tivat & Porto
Montenegro... |
Check Out:
Tivat on Google Maps
Porto Montenegro:
www.portomontenegro.com |
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If your looking for a great excursion to a
small town where many of the locals in the
area come to hang out, then Tivat is the
place. Also a popular vacation spot most of
the year (conveniently located about 10
miles form the international airport),
it's a great place to vacation. We
didn't expect much for the little town, but
ended up staying a couple days longer than
planned, and really enjoyed it! |
Also located about 6 miles inside the Bay of
Kotor, the small town of Tivat is the host
to some really great beaches, a couple
nightclubs and a few nice restaurants along
a great oceanside walk that is the gathering
point for the community every night around
dinner. |
We found that one of the nicest highlights
of the small tourist town was a great new
marina. Porto Montenegro is a great start to
what is sure to be the biggest marina in
Montenegro, and one of the largest in the
Mediterranean. |
Currently, with only 85
standard births (and a dozen for very
large yachts), Porto Montenegro is well
on it's way to its 700 berth target.
It is by far, one of the cleanest and well
organized under construction marinas we have
ever visited (and rivals most completed
marinas by far!). |
The marina is currently free (until March
2010), with complementary WiFi and all
the regular accommodations (Water, Power,
Restrooms, Showers, etc.) I highly
recommend stopping by for a few days, taking
in the small town, and experiencing the local
nightlife! |
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